Introduction
This document aims to guide you through installation, setup and then adding fun things later. Although you may not immediately understand everything in this manual, please take the time to read it as thoroughly as possible.
Some concepts and functionality will become clearer given context added by other parts of the document. If at any point you feel lost or uncertain, please reach out to us and we will do our best to help you.
Requirements
Sensors
Unfortunately, the factory MAF sensor cannot be used. It measures air in a completely different way to what Link ECU’s expect. To at least drive and run the car, you require the following additional sensors to be fitted (and we designed a MAP Conversion Kit to help make this easier):
Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) sensor
A good quality MAP sensor is required and it needs to be connected to the intake manifold after the Throttle Body, usually to the back of the intake manifold.
If you opted for an on-board MAP sensor, you just need to run a suitable air hose from the intake manifold to the ECU area in the cabin.
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor
Although you can reuse the IAT built into the MAF, we urge you to fit a new one to avoid issues later on.
As the MAF is located before the turbos, the temperature sensor cannot see what the air temperature is going into the engine… something the ECU needs to know to fuel correctly.
The best location for a new IAT sensor is just before the throttle body in the intake elbow or at some point between the intercooler and throttle body.
Lambda (O2 / Oxygen) sensor
It is also strongly recommended you also have a wideband Lambda (O2) sensor fitted to accurately monitor fuelling.
This sensor should be installed in the exhaust downpipe just before any catalytic converters – ideally replacing the factory narrowband sensor.
We also recommend either a CAN-based Lambda sensor like the Link CAN Lambda sensor as these transfer information to the ECU digitally for the most accurate results.
Tools
You’ll need the following tools (and possibly others):
- Phillips screwdriver and a flat blade screwdriver
- 10 mm socket bit (if you can find it) and a suitable ratchet
- A laptop computer with a good battery* running Windows 8 or later
- The relevant PC Link Software from Link installed on it
- A suitable base map supplied by ourselves
* Do not use a 12V / 24V mains inverter! It introduces a ground loop that can damage your laptop and / or the ECU. It can also quickly flatten your cars battery. If in doubt, use the laptops original mains adaptor with an extension lead to a wall socket.
Installation
Install sensors and remove the factory ECU
- Disconnect the car battery and wait a couple of minutes for any charge in the cars electronics to dissipate
- If you are using our MAP Conversion Kit:
- Carefully unplug the connector from the MAF sensor – this may be stiff, gently rock from side to side whilst holding the tab – do not pull on the cables
- Plug / wire in your MAP sensor and tee it in to the small hose at the back of the intake plenum
- Plug / wire in your IAT sensor and install it in a suitable location as close to the throttle body as possible
- If you opted for the on-board MAP sensor:
- Run good quality boost pipe hose from the intake plenum to the cabin where the ECUs are
- Tee the hose in to the small hose at the back of the intake plenum
- Connect the other end in the cabin to the Link ECU when it’s time
- Go into the cabin and remove the side panels either side of the center console in both passenger footwells
- Locate the engine ECU above the transmission tunnel – it’s the one with 4 (usually green) plugs
- Undo the 2x 10mm bolts on the right side of the ECU and the 10mm nut on the left side with the ground wire
- Slide the engine ECU out to the left and then place the ground wire back on the stud it came from
- Carefully unplug all 4 connectors – they too will likely be quite stiff, gently rock from side to side whilst holding the tab – do not pull on the cables
Installing the new Link ECU
- Make sure your working environment is clean and you have discharged any static on something like a metal tap or a radiator
- Unpack the board and inspect it – you’ll notice there are switches on the board, these should be all set to up (towards the main plug)
- These switches must be set to the up position unless you are using an electronic throttle system or damage to the car / ECU may occur
- As you’ll likely need to remove the top board from the donor Link ECU, here’s how to do it – extra caution must be taken when doing this so as not to damage it
- Start by removing the 2 screws and nuts supporting the top board and keep them nearby – you’ll need to reuse them with our board
- Next, gently lift the top board up by the screw side and then slip the included plastic lever between the top board and base board to take the strain
- Whilst applying upward force with the lever, gently push down on the top board on the screw side, so as to slightly prise it away from the connector
- Repeat this process slowly and surely until the top board can be lifted off – the goal is to remove it without bending any of the pins
- With the top board in hand, align it to the pins on our new board and slowly but firmly push it down onto the pins, being careful to not bend them
- Reuse the screws and nuts to support it – if you do not have these you can use <TBD> instead
- Take the PCB out of your old ECU case:
- If your ECU is a metal case, there will be 4 Phillips screws externally and 4 screws internally
- If your ECU is a black plastic case, you will need to use the flat blade screwdriver to lever it out – be careful doing this or you’ll crack the case or damage the PCB
- Install the new board and reassemble:
- If your ECU is a metal case, this should line up nicely but you’ll need to bend one of the tabs to allow the USB cable / hose out – do not over-tighten the screws though
- If your ECU is a black plastic case, it should slide right in and the included fascia plate should hold it in, the cutouts will permit the USB cable / hose out nicely
- Keep your old ECU PCB safe, ideally back in the anti-static bag your original Link ECU came in
- Plug the new Link ECU into the connectors you unplugged before and rest it on the floor
- Reconnect the car battery and if relevant, attach the air hose from step 3 to the small air hose coming out of the ECU (if present)
Upload the base tune
- Start the laptop up and launch the PC Link software for your ECU
- Open the base template file (File -> Open) we have supplied
- Connect the USB cable to the laptop and turn the ignition on – do not start the car – also ignore the dash not lighting up for now
- PC Link should then prompt you to apply the file, click Yes
- If it did not prompt you, either it hasn’t connected (press F3 to connect) or hasn’t recognised it differs (File -> Open again)
- It will upload it to the ECU and then reboot the ECU (you’ll hear things click / whirr briefly from the car) and the dash should now light up
- It will then prompt you to Store, again select Yes
Configure the sensors
- First you’ll need to configure the MAP sensor (you can skip this step if you have the On-board MAP sensor):
- Click on the Configuration tab at the top (if it isn’t already selected)
- In the ECU Settings pane on the left (or View -> ECU Settings) find the MAP sensor under Analog Inputs:
- On PC Link G4+ this will be AN Volt 1
- On PC Link G5 this will be MAP and you’ll need to choose AN Volt 1 as the Source
- Choose the correct Calibration value for your sensor – if you are unsure what to select, please contact us
- Then you’ll need to calibrate the MAP sensor:
- Click on the ECU Controls menu and then MAP Sensor Calibration and follow the on-screen instructions
- Next you’ll need to configure the IAT sensor:
- In the ECU Settings pane on the left (or View -> ECU Settings) find the IAT sensor under Analog Inputs:
- On PC Link G4+ this will be AN Temp 2
- On PC Link G5 this will be IAT and you’ll need to choose AN Temp 2 as the Source
- Choose the correct Calibration value for your sensor – if you are unsure what to select, please contact us
- In the ECU Settings pane on the left (or View -> ECU Settings) find the IAT sensor under Analog Inputs:
- Next, if you have a Wideband Lambda sensor, you’ll need to configure that too (you can skip this step if you are using the factory narrowband sensor):
- In the ECU Settings pane on the left (or View -> ECU Settings) find the Lambda 1 sensor under Analog Inputs:
- On PC Link G4+ this will be AN Volt 3
- On PC Link G5 this will be Lambda 1 and you’ll need to choose AN Volt 3 as the Source
- Choose the correct Calibration value for your sensor – if you are unsure what to select, please contact us
- In the ECU Settings pane again, go to Fuel -> Closed Loop Lambda -> Closed Loop Lambda and change Lambda Mode to Auto Mode (Wide Band)
- In the ECU Settings pane on the left (or View -> ECU Settings) find the Lambda 1 sensor under Analog Inputs:
- Then you’ll need to calibrate the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor):
- Click on the ECU Controls menu and then TPS Setup and follow the on-screen instructions
- Finally you’ll need to Store and Save:
- To store the above settings permanently to the ECU, either press CTRL+s or select the ECU Controls -> Store to ECU menu option
- Then you’ll need to save the new file with the File -> Save As… menu (do not overwrite the base map file, use a new filename)
- We tend to use the following naming conversion and recommend you do the same:
REG - revision - What I changed in this file
So for example, something likeP23XRH - v1 - Initial setup of sensors
- Always make a new file when you make changes so you can easily revert it if something goes wrong
- We tend to use the following naming conversion and recommend you do the same:
Final preparation and testing
- With the ECU configured as above and its configuration saved to a new file, we now need to let the Lambda sensor cool down
- Turn off the ignition and wait 2-3 minutes – yes it’s boring, but serious damage can occur to the lambda sensor if you don’t..
Leaving the ignition on for more than 10 seconds without starting the car lets the Lambda sensor heat up before the engine..
If you then start the car a wave of cold air hits it, causing the sensor to crack and break. We found this out the hard way 😒 - After a couple of minutes, turn the ignition back on, make sure the PC Link software has reconnected (F3 again) and start the car
- It may not run perfectly due to it requiring a tune, but it should well run enough to drive gently. If it doesn’t start, turn it off and contact us for help
- Once you’ve confirmed the car is running, shut it down, disconnect the battery and refit the ECU properly (being careful not to pinch the wires)
- Before you put the side panels back on, be sure to run the USB cable up into the Glove Box so you can easily access it in future
Additional Information
Pinouts
Optional Feature Documentation
We have other pages with guides on how to install or use the following;
- Electronic Throttle / Drive-by-Wire – COMING SOON
- Sequential Ignition – COMING SOON
- CAN Lambda – COMING SOON